Czech Breweries
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styles - history - beers
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Introduction | ||
Much has changed in the Czech brewing world
since the end of communism. Brewery closures, new technology and foreign
takeovers have transformed the industry. Not all of these changes have been
for the better. This page attempts to describe the current structure of the Czech brewing industry, its beer styles and how they developed. |
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That
was then In 1988 many Czech breweries were almost unchanged from the 1930's. While productivity may have been low, there was no argument about the quality of the beers brewed. Open fermenters, long lagering times and absence of pasteurisation produced distinctive and flavoursome beers. No other country came even vaguely close to the general high standard of Czech lager. It was impossible to find bad beer. The larger regional breweries - Staropramen, Gambrinus, Velké Popovice and, of course, Pilsner Urquell - had national distribution. Even in a town like Prague, where there were several large local breweries, there was a good choice of beer from the whole of Czechoslovakia. Though not as well known as those from Pilsen and Ceské Budejovice, the Prague beers were of just as high a standard until a few years ago. Unhappily, this is no longer the case and the ubiquitous Staropramen 10% and 12% pale lagers are rapidly approaching the (low) standard of 'international' pils beers brewed the world over. The traditional Prague style, as in Munich, is a dark lager and thankfully, after many years of being difficult to find, it seems to have become more available of late. It resisted the switch from top-fermenting longer than other Czech styles and only changed to using bottom-fermenting yeast at the end of the 1800's. The best example is undoubtedly that of U Fleku, a beer along the same lines as a Franconian dark kellerbier. The second best of this style, Braník 12% cerné, which for many years was the only other to be found in any of the city centre pubs, has been discontinued. A move which demonstrated Bass's level of commitment to Prague's brewing traditions. The pubs which used to sell it (and which in some cases still have signs outside advertising it) now have the much-inferior Mestan 11% dark. |
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This
is now The idiotic way the Czech brewing industry was privatised, when the regional groupings of the communist era were sold off in job lots, meant all the local breweries gained a single private owner. In Prague the three large breweries - Staropramen, Braník and Mestan - were in a single group, Prazské Pivovary, and had the same owner. In November 1996, when they increased their shareholding to 51%, that owner was the British firm Bass. When Bass decided to get out of brewing, the breweries passed to the Belgian multinational Interbrew. Interbrew isn't the only international vulture to have descended on the carcass of the communist brewing industry. SABMiller - worryingly for anyone who cares about beer - grabbed almost half of the Czech market when Nomura got bored of playing brewer. They've shown their respect for Pilsner Urquell's uniques tradition by brewing it under licence in plants they control in other countries, such as Poland. Heineken, through its ownership of the Austrian group BBAG, now has a toehold in the Czech Republic. I can't imagine that it will be content with its current market share of less than 5%. That just isn't the way globalists operate. Most of the country's breweries have been hypnotised by all those shiny new conical fermenters and stainless steel lagering tanks. It's as if there's a race on to see how quickly they can destroy hundreds of years of tradition. At the current rate of destruction, they should be just about finished in 5 years time. A few smaller companies are showing more respect, but these are usually small and only available locally. Herold and Regent are two of those sticking with the old techniques and whose beers have a wider distribution. On a more positive note, many individuals have taken advantage of the new economic climate and set up microbreweries and brewpubs. These now make up over 40% of all the breweries in the Czech Republic. Though in terms of market share they are of negligible importance. |
The Czech brewing industry | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
At present, the Czech domestic beer market is dominated by
SABMiller, who have a share of over
40%. I expect Heineken and Interbrew
to increase their cut, either through further acquisitions ofr aggressive
marketing. The future looks bleak for many of the smaller, regional breweries
who lack the finances to secure outlets or advertise. The five largest brewing groups account for around 75% of beer production. Since the mid-1990's most regional breweries have seen their output fall - sometimes quite dramatically. Many medium-sized breweries are operating at less than 50% of their capacity. At the time of the change in the political system in 1989 there were 71 breweries in the Czech Republic. Of these, 20 have since closed. So far, the opening of new brewpubs and microbreweries has more than offset the closures, at least in terms of total numbers. The net number of breweries has been increasing by around 1.5 per year over the last 10 years. The current number of active breweries is around 89. The breweries break down as follows:
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Brewers'
Trade Organisations The Czech Union of Breweries and Malt-Houses ("Český svaz pivovarů a sladoven") http://www.cspas.cz/ An organisation founded before WW II. Represents the longer-established and larger breweries. The Czech Union of Small Independent Breweries ("Český svaz malých nezávislých pivovarů") Černá Hora 3/5, 679 21 Černá Hora. Tel: 0506 - 482426 Fax: 0506 - 482429 Email: asistent@PivovarCH.cz http://www.csmnp.cz/ Founded in 1993 to represent the interests of smaller breweries. Has around 24 members. |
Beer
Drinkers' Organisation Chrám chmele a piva "Cathedral of Beer and Hops" an organisation deicated to the hops and beer of Zatec (Saaz). Czech Beer Tours Let Libor Vojácek guide you around some of the Czech Republic´s smaller and more interesting breweries. |
Czech Beer Styles - History | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Pilsener and Budweiser Bohemia is world-famous for its pale lagers, yet these beers to not dominate the local beer landscape as much as one might imagine. A surprisingly large number of dark and amber lagers are brewed, too. It should be remembered that the terms "Pilsener" and "Budweiser" are used as terms of geographical origin in the Czech Republic, not to designate a style or a brand. A tradition of brewing bottom-fermenting porters, similar to those made in Poland, has almost died out, though a couple of such beers still survive. Before I tell you about Czech beer styles today, let's take a journey into the past. I think it will prove most instructive. |
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Bottom-fementing styles
circa 1900 There is a fascinating chapter in "American Handy Book of Brewing , Malting and Auxiliary Trades" (Wahl & Henius, Chicago 1902) on Thick Mash Beers in Germany and Austria (P.780-792). It's the best explanation I've read of early lager styles. It's pretty precise about the specifications of the beers, even down to the hopping rates. As the book is designed as a practical manual for berwers, it must bear at least some resemblance to reality. I'll paraphrase now what it says about the different types of continental lager beer:
Here are some Czech, Viennese and Bavarian beers analysed around this time (Wahl & Henius, p. 823-830):
You'll note that the beers run like this in decreasing degree of attenuation (and increasing colour): Budweis, Pilsen, Vienna, Munich. A tantalising - that because I only have an analysis of 1 Budweis beer - difference is shown between the Pilsen beers the drier one from Budweis. It's a distinction that is just as true today. By way of comparison, here are the specifications of DDR bottom-fermenting cicrca 1975 ("Technologie Brauer und Mälzer" Wolfgang Kunze, Leipzig 1975, p.415-430):
You're probably wondering (if you haven't already packed up and gone home) why I have bothered you with all this historical gumph. Because without this knowledge, modern Czech beer styles won't make a great deal of sense. Unless - as may well be the case - you're brighter than me. How can I say this without seeming a total prat? Until a terrifyingly recent date, I had thought of Czech beer as without beer styles in the classic sense. They don't call their beers Pils or Münchner or Export; they just brew 11, 12, 13 and 14° Plato beer either pale, dark or amber. How wrong could I have been..... Stumbling across a pre-WW II Czech beer label prompted a rethink. A very simple label, printed in orangey-brown. In the centre "14%" and underneath "Märzen". Of course - Czech 14% amber beers were in the Märzen style! On closer inspection, 13% pale lagers are in the Spezial style; suddenly these Bohemian beers were fitting in very nicely with the lagers from Bavaria, Austria and Switzerland. (As an illustration I've included the German and Czech versions of the same beer label. OK, it's a bit strange calling a 10° beer a Märzen, but it confirms "Březňák" as the Czech translation.) It's like a physicist stumbling upon an unified field theory - suddenly the whole universe can be described in one sentence. Or perhaps a 19th century chemist filling in the grid of the periodic table. Which is exactly what I'll do now. The illuminating quality of Czech lagers is not a matter of chance. The survival of so many of the early lager types in Bohemia make it far easier to spot patterns. Here's my grid: |
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I won't insult your intelligence - you can see that far more of the Czech boxes are occupied. Vienna lagers aren't dead: they've just moved over the border. No country produces such a range of amber (polotmavé pivo) and dark lagers (tmavé pivo) as the Czech Republic. I can't quite understand why no-one has twigged this yet. You can read more about the History and Brewing methods of Pilsner Urquell here. |
Czech Beer Statistics
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Beer Production (1000 hl) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
1712 | 1832 | 1864 | 1900 | 1905 | 1929 | 1930 | 1950 | 1976 | 1978 | 1980 | 1986 | 1987 | 1988 | 1989 | 1990 | 1991 | 1992 | 1993 | 1994 | 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | |
Czech Republic | 3,000b | 9,000b | - | - | - | - | 16,400@ | - | 17,626# | 17,476# | 17,928# | 18,200* 18,854# |
18,936# | 17,414 | - | - | 18,242 | - | 18,292 | - | - | 17,916 | 17,881 | 18,178 | 18,548* | 18,753* | ||||
Czechoslovakia
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11,968c | 13,000@ | 11,400@ | 9,250@ | 22,100 | 21,900@ | 23,000@ | 22,789# | 22,228# | 22,670# | 23,333# | 21,966# | - | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | |||||
Slovakia
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- | - | - | - | 5,500@ | - | 5,164# | 4,752# | 4,743# | 4,538# | 4,607# | - | - | 3,986 | 4,536 | - | 4,700 | - | 4,485 | - | 4,520 | 4,574 | 4,850 | |||||||
Bohemia
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1,336c | 1,966c | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Sources: (years 1997 - 2001) Brauwelt Brevier 2003 - Brauwelt 3/2004, page 86 * Český svaz pivovarů a sladoven @ ABC o Nápojích (Angerová & Sůra, 1986) p.176 # UN Statistics Division. b "Pivovary Moravy a Slezska" (Region Silesia, 2002, ISBN 80-238-9776-4) p.6 c Brauwelt 11 (2005) p.304 |
Beer consumption per head per annum (litres) | ||||||||||||||||||||||
1976 | 1983 | 1984 | 1985 | 1986 | 1987 | 1988 | 1989 | 1991 | 1992 | 1993 | 1994 | 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | ||
The Czech Republic | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | 164.9* | 163.3* | 153.6* | 163 | 160 | 160 | 160 | 161.8 | - | 159 | 158& | - | 160@ | |
(Czechoslovakia)
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142 | 147.8 | 140.1 | 130.8 | 133.4 | 130 | 130 | - | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | |
(Slovakia)
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n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | - | - | - | - | - | 96 | - | - | - | - | - | 93# | - | |
Sources: 1976 - World Guide to Beer, Michael Jackson, 1983 - 1989 Bier in Belgie, Geert van Lierde, 1993 and 1994 - The Confederation of Belgian Brewers. 1995 - Economics Department, German Brewers' Assocition. 1997,1998 - Brauwelt Brevier 2000 2000 - Brauwelt 31-32/2002 2002 - # Brauwelt 18/2004 page .513 2003 - @ Brauwelt 3/2004, page 86 * US Department of Commerce |
Number of breweries | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||
1712 | 1832 | 1850 | 1860 | 1905 | 1912 | 1918 | 1927 | 1935 | 1937 | 1946 | 1950 | 1979 | 1989 | 1992 | 1993 | 1994 | 1995 | 1996 | 1997 | 1998 | 1999 | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | |
Czech Republic
Total |
- | - | 500# | - | - | - | - | - | 80@ | 71* | 72a | 74a | 77a | 80a | 77a | 73a | 81a | 81# 81a |
81a | 84a | 84a | 88a | ||||
pre-1989 breweries
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68a | 68a | 67a | 66a | 62a | 58a | 57a | 58# 56a |
55a | 54* 54a |
51a | 51a | ||||||||||||||
post-1989 breweries
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4a |
6a |
10a | 14a | 15a | 15a | 24a | 23# 25a |
26a | 30a | 33a | 37a | ||||||||||||||
Czechoslovakia
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1052* | 1060b | 740b | 666* | 526* | 331& | 320& | 309& | 260* | 198# | 96@ | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | n/a | ||
Slovakia | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | - | 16@ | - | 15 | - | 15 | 15 | 15 | 15 | - | - | 12 | - | - | - | ||||
Bohemia
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1279c | 1087c | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Sources: & Státní úřad statistický * Český svaz pivovarů a sladoven @ "ABC o Nápojích" (Angerová & Sůra, 1986) # "Restaurant Microbreweries in the Czech Republic" (1999, ISBN 80-902658-0-4) p.9 a - my calculation b "Pivovary Moravy a Slezska" (Region Silesia, 2002, ISBN 80-238-9776-4) p.6 c Brauwelt 11 (2005) p.304 |
Czech beer exports (1,000 hl) | |||||||||||||||
Country | 2000 | 2001 | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | ||||||||||
Exports | Production | %age exported | Exports | Production | %age exported | Exports | Production | %age exported | Exports | Production | %age exported | Exports | Production | %age exported | |
Czech Republic | 1,589c | 17,916b | 8.9% | 1,855* | 17,881+ | 10.4% | 2,034a | 17,987a | 11.31%a | 2,130c | 18,548c | 11.5%c | 2,638c | 18,753c | 14.1%c |
Sources: * Centraal Brouwerij Kantoor + Brauwelt Brevier 2003 a "Het Brouwersblad" June 2004. p.10 b Brauwelt Brevier c Ceský svaz pivovarů a sladoven |
Beer production by beer type | |
beer type | 2004 |
výcepní | 61.3% |
ležák | 34.4% |
non-alcoholic beer | 1.1% |
Source: Český svaz pivovarů a sladoven |
Beer production by package type | |
beer type | 2004 |
draught | 47% |
bottled | 46% |
canned | 4% |
Source: Český svaz pivovarů a sladoven |
Largest Czech breweries and their market share | ||||||||||||||
1991 |
1991
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1995 |
1995
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2000
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2000 |
2001
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2001 |
2002
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2002 | 2003 | 2003 | 2004 | 2004 | |
Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | |
Plzeňský Prazdroj (SABMiller) | 3,283,560* | 18%* | 4,915,000 | 27% | 5,100,000 | 28.5% | 5,200,000 | 28.6% | ||||||
Radegast (SABMiller) | 1,177,000 | 1,763,000 | 9.7% | 2,077,000 | 11.6% | 1,900,000 | 10.6% | 2,155,000 | 11.9% | |||||
Budějovický Budvar (state owned) | 490,000 | 909,000 | 5% | 1,347,000 | 7.5% | 1,350,000 | 7.5% | 1,213,000 | 6.7% | 1,112,000c | 6% | 1,112,360 | 5.9% | |
Staropramen (Interbrew) | 1,157,000 | 6.5% | 1,243,000 | 6.9% | 1,257,000 | 6.9% | 1,400,000c | 7.5% | ||||||
Velké Popovice (SABMiller) | 812,000 | 811,000 | 4.4% | 749,000 | 4.2% | 944,000 | 5.3% | 1,107,000 | 6.1% | |||||
Pivovar Braník (Interbrew) | 731,000 | 4.1% | 841,000 | 4.7% | 829,000 | 4.6% | ||||||||
Krušovice (Binding) | 513,000 | 2.8% | 790,000 | 4.4% | 711,000 | 4% | 678,000 | 3.7% | ||||||
Starobrno (Heineken) | 569,000 | 3.2% | 545,000 | 3% | 572,500 | 3.1% | ||||||||
Ostravar (Interbrew) | 372,000 | 2% | 441,000 | 2.5% | 475,000 | 2.7% | 543,000 | 3% | ||||||
Pivovar Holba (PMS a.s. Přerov) | 270,000 | 433,000 | 2.4% | |||||||||||
Pivovar Zubr (PMS a.s. Přerov) | 386,000 | 2.2% | 335,000 | 1.8% | 306,000 | 1.7% | ||||||||
Krásné Březno (Drinks Union) | 246,000 | 1.4% | 248,000 | 1.4% | ||||||||||
Total (top 5 breweries) | 10,286,000 | 57.4% | 10,537,000 | 58.9% | 10,932,000 | 60.1% | ||||||||
Total (all breweries) | 18,242,000 | 17,916,000 | 17,900,000 | 18,178,000 | 18,548,000 | 18,753,268 | ||||||||
Source: The Czech Union of Breweries and Malt-Houses * SABMiller c Brauwelt 11 (2005) p.304 my own calculation |
Largest Czech brewing groups and their market share | ||||||||||||||
1991 |
1991
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1995 |
1995
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2000
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2000 |
2001
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2001 | 2002 | 2002 |
2003
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2003 | 2004 | 2004 | |
Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | Output (hl) | % | |
Plzeňský Prazdroj (SABMiller) | 3,284,000* | 18%* | 4,915,000 | 27% | 5,100,000 | 28.5% | 5,200,000 | 28.6% | ||||||
Radegast (SABMiller) | 1,177,000 | 1,763,000 | 9.7% | 2,077,000 | 11.6% | 1,900,000 | 10.6% | 2,155,000 | 11.9% | |||||
Velké Popovice (SABMiller) | 812,000 | 811,000 | 4.4% | 749,000 | 4.2% | 944,000 | 5.3% | 1,107,000 | 6.1% | |||||
SABMiller Total | 7,741,000 | 43.2% | 7,944,000 | 44.4% | 8,462,000 | 46.6% | 8,600,000 | 46.4% | 8,447,957 | 45% | ||||
Staropramen (Interbrew) | 1,157,000 | 6.5% | 1,243,000 | 6.9% | 1,257,000 | 6.9% | 1,400,000c | 7.5% | ||||||
Ostravar (Interbrew) | 372,000 | 2% | 441,000 | 2.5% | 475,000 | 2.7% | 543,000 | 3% | ||||||
Pivovar Braník (Interbrew) | 731,000 | 4.1% | 841,000 | 4.7% | 829,000 | 4.6% | ||||||||
Interbrew Total | 2,329,000 | 13% | 2,559,000 | 14.3% | 2,629,000 | 14.5% | 2,800,000 | 15.1% | 2,946,614 | 15.7% | ||||
Hostan (Heineken) | 192,000 | 213,000 | 203,000 | 1.1% | 200,000 | 1.1% | ||||||||
Starobrno (Heineken) | 569,000 | 3.2% | 545,000 | 3% | 572,500 | 3.1% | ||||||||
Heineken Total | 748,000 | 4.2% | 772,500 | 4.3% | 831,243 | 4.4% | ||||||||
Pivovar Holba (PMS a.s. Přerov) | 433,000 | 2.4% | ||||||||||||
Pivovar Zubr (PMS a.s. Přerov) | 386,000 | 2.2% | 335,000 | 1.8% | 306,000 | 1.7% | ||||||||
Pivovar Litovel (PMS a.s. Přerov) | 230,000 | 1.2% | ||||||||||||
PMS a.s. Přerov Total | 969,000 | 5.3% | 956,276 | 5.1% | ||||||||||
Krásné Březno (Drinks Union) | 320,000 | 268,000 | 246,000 | 1.4% | 248,000 | 1.4% | ||||||||
Kutná Hora (Drinks Union) | 230,000 | 200,000 | 102,000 | 90,000 | 69,000 | 0.4% | ||||||||
Pivovar Louny (Drinks Union) | 234,000 | 251,000 | 1.4% | 229,000 | 1.3% | |||||||||
Velké Březno (Drinks Union) | 180,000 | 227,000 | 246,000 | 1.4% | 249,000 | 1.4% | ||||||||
Drinks Union Total | 831,000 | 833,000 | 795,000 | 4.4% | 935,887 | 5% | ||||||||
Total (top 5 brewing groups) | 13,667,500 | 75.2% | 14,117,977 | 75.3% | ||||||||||
Total (all breweries) | 18,242,000 | 17,916,000 | 17,900,000 | 18,178,000 | 18,548,000 | 18,753,268 | ||||||||
Sources: The Czech Union of Breweries and Malt-Houses * SABMiller c Brauwelt 11 (2005) p.304 my own calculation |
Breweries grouped by output | |||
Annual output | 1995 | 2003 | |
< 10,000 hl | 4# | 40* | |
>10,000 hl < 100,000 hl | 23# | 16* | |
>100,000 hl < 250,000 hl | 20* | ||
>250,000 hl < 500,000 hl | 4* | ||
>500,000 hl < 1,000,000 hl | 3* | ||
>1,000,000 hl | 5* | ||
Total | 88* | ||
Source: * my own calculation |
1995 | |||||
No. | %age | output (1,000 hl | %age of output | ||
<10 | 4 | 5.71 | 8.6 | 0.05 | |
10-50 | 11 | 15.71 | 306.7 | 1.72 | |
50-100 | 12 | 17.14 | 856.0 | 4.80 | |
100-150 | 9 | 12.86 | 1,082.8 | 6.07 | |
150-200 | 11 | 17.71 | 1,940.0 | 10.88 | |
200-500 | 16 | 22.87 | 5,089.7 | 28.55 | |
500-1000 | 4 | 5.71 | 2,781.7 | 15.60 | |
>1000 | 3 | 4.29 | 5,764.7 | 32.33 | |
Total | 70 | 100.00 | 17,830.2 | 100.00 | |
Source: U. S. Department of Commerce - National Trade Data Bank, May 6, 1999 |
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Czech Brewery
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© Ron Pattinson 2004