Prague Pub Guide: the best beer pubs, bars and beerhalls

Prague Pub Guide

Nové Město

The latest version of this site is at my new domain http://www.europeanbeerguide.net/pragpub1.htm.

Introduction
	Index Pub Map Nové Město Pubs Vinohrady Pubs Prague 8 (Karlín) Pubs Beer Shops Outside Prague Prague Introduction Introduction to Czech Beer Czech Breweries
This is a list of a few pubs, mostly in the Nové Mesto, or New Town, area of the city. But don't be fooled by the name - this part of Prague was built before 1700. It's only new in comparison to the medieval Old Town. In general, it has been much less polluted by the tourist hordes that have descended on Prague since 1989. If you want to drink with locals (and pay local prices) this is where to come.

Pub Map

Index

U Pinkasů
Branicky Sklípek Restaurace
Branická Formanka
Novomestsky Pivovar
U Malvaze
U Rotundy
Pivnice U Zpevácků
U Fleků
U Bubenicků

Prague Pub Guide

Nové Město Pub Listings

1. U Pinkasů
Jungmannovo Náměstí 15/16 110 00 Prague 1 Tel.: 221 111 150 Fax: 221 111 153 E-mail: mailbox@upinkasu.cz Homepage: http://www.upinkasu.cz/
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 09:00-23:00
Number of draught beers: 2
Number of bottled beers: 1
Regular draught beers: Pilsner Urquell 12% Velkopopovický kozel 10% tmavé (dark)
Food: Snacks, meals. Prices: Snacks 49-100kr, meals 79-199kr. Beer 10° 29 kr, 12° 33kr for a half litre.
Pinkasů has been more successful than most of the classic city centre beerhalls in keeping its authentic character, but there are signs it's beginning to crack. The outdoor seating in particular is almost the exclusive territoty of foreign tourists. Though the prices are still pretty fair. Not far from Václavské Náměstí, it was the first outlet for Pilsner Urquell in the Czech capital. In 1843 the landlord, Pinkas (after whom the pub is named), asked one of his mates to bring some of the new beer from Pilsen. He (and the customers) liked it so much that it's been on ever since. If you understand how turbulent the history of the Czerh lands has been in the intervening years, then you'll recognise just how remarkable this is. Expansion into a neighbouring house has resulted in a much larger multi-roomed interior. Downstairs, it has a bar and a room for meals. Upstairs, resembles more a formal restaurant. The pubbier of the downstairs rooms has a proper vaulted ceiling and red-and-white checked tablecloths. Pre-1989, it wasn't anything that unusual: there were dozens of similar bars. Nowadays, it's a pleasant surprise to find a pub in the city centre where Czech is the main languge being spoken. A lovely experience, at least for those of us who recognise Czech as the most beautiful language ever devised. Quite small and cosy, really, with a pleasantly relaxed atmosphere often found in traditional Czech pubs. It seems to have hung onto its Prague identity better than most places in the city centre. Or perhaps it's because I was there out of the tourist season. The prices are pretty reasonable at 26.8 kr a half litre. That could account for the high percentage of locals.
Rating: ****	Public transport: Můstek metro.

2. Branický Sklípek Restaurace
Vodicková 26 Prague 1. Tel. 260005
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 09:00-23:00 Sat-Sun: 11:00-23:00
Number of draught beers: 2
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Branické 12% (light) Staropraman 11% (dark)
Food: Snacks, meals.
The left-hand entrance to this pub is the restaurant side and is a large room, strangely enough, mainly intended for eating. The extensive use of pale pine in the furnishings and panelling is typical of 1980's pub refurbushments, though in this case it's undoubtedly much more recent. The decorative theme is based around old photos of the Braník brewery, sadly scheduled for closure in 2007. In fact, this is one of the very few outlets for Braník's beers in central Prague. A shame, as their 12° pale lager knocks spots off Staropramen.
Rating: **	Public transport:

3. Branická Formanka
Vodicková 26, Prague 1.
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 08:00-21:00 Sat - Sun: 09:00-21:00
Number of draught beers: 3
Number of bottled beers: 2
Regular draught beers: Branické 10% (light) Branické 12% (light)
Food: Snacks. Prices: Snacks 25 kr. Beer 10° 17.50 kr, 12° 19kr for a half litre.
Right next door to Branický Sklípek Restaurace, and sharing the same address, is Branická Formanka. Formed form a single tiny space, it is, in effect, just a taproom (which is what "formanka" means). The interior is fairly modern, with brick floors and walls plus a couple of charmingly crappy murals. The wooden tables are covered with great Branické Pivo tablecloths (I wish I had some of those at home). A rather snazzy plasma screen is an incongruous recent addition. Ever wondered where the Czechs are hiding in central Prague? Well, wuite a few of thenm are here. A glance at the prices demonstrates its attraction for the locals. The customers are exclusively male and either nipping in for a quick beer during their shopping or doing some serious boozing after work. I note that the colour of overalls has changed from that boring dark blue to a lurid bright green. The "smoking allowed" sign placed opposite the entrance (so you can't miss it) should read "smoking compulsory" This is probably the smokiest place I have ever been in (after a while in Prague, you'll realise what level of lung damage you're risking when I say that) - so bring your bacon along if you want it curing.
Rating: ****	Public transport:

4. Novoměstský Pivovar
Vodicková 20 Prague 11 000 Tel. 242 15 999 Email: sales@npivovar.cz http://www.npivovar.cz/
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 08:00-23:30 Sat: 11:30-23:30 Sun: 12:00-22:00
Number of draught beers: 1
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Novoměstský Kvasnicový Ležák 11% pale Novoměstský Kvasnicový Ležák 11% dark
Food: Snacks, meals. Prices:Snacks 75-150 kr, meals 150-600 kr. Beer 30 kr for half a litre.
A large new (well, 1993, which I guess isn't that new any more) brewpub fairly well hidden down the end of a shopping arcade. Though it is fairly centrally located, only a few minutes' walk away from both Národní Třída and Václavské Náměstí. It has a confusing array of rooms on different levels. The Varna, or brewhouse, is a reasonably posh restaurant with the coppers as centrepiece. Downstairs is a more pub-like drinking area with plain pine tables and a flagged floor. The prices are very reasonable for somewhere reasonably posh the town centre. The unpolluted air is a relief from being locked in a cupbaord with a chain smoker - which is what most pubs are like here.
Rating: ****	Public transport:

5. U Malvaze
Karlova 10 Prague Tel. 265 777
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 12:00-02:00 Sat - Sun: 09:00-21:00
Number of draught beers: 2
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Pilsner Urquell 12%
Food: Snacks, meals.
This single-roomed pub is unfortunately too close to Charles Bridge to have survived the recent upheavals in Prague unchanged. The structure - walls panelled in wood to half their height, a plastered vaulted ceiling - remains the same. The tables have gained smart new green and white tablecloths and the general appearance has been poshed up a little, but at a very high price. The delicious Braník 12% dark is gone, the prices have shot up (38 kr) and the glass size has dropped to 0.4l. All this said, if you're close by and feeling thirsty, it's not so bad. Would be nice if there were some Czechs in there other than the waiters.
Rating: **	Public transport:

6. Hostinec U Rotundy
Karoliny Světlé 17 Prague 110 00 Tel. 26075
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 10:00-22:00 Sat - Sun: 11:00-22:00
Number of draught beers: 1
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Staropramen 10%
Food: Snacks, meals. Prices: Snacks 20-50 kr, beer 19kr for 0.5 l..
It will be a sad day when Rotundy finally succumbs to the pressures of the post-communist age. Twenty years ago, Prague was littered with ordinary boozers like this. Now Rotundy is like an living museum.of social history. The layout - a small standup taproom by the entrance, followed by a couple of rooms with tables - is typical of Prague pubs. The dark wood panelling and simple wooden tables is pretty bog standard, too. Though many pubs are going over to a more designed look. I love the simplicity of service in such establishments. I walked in past the bar and sat down at a table in the next room. Thirty seconds later the barman put a half litre in front of me. We hadn't even exchanged glances, let alone words. Everyone else in the pub was Czech. Middle-aged, working class men. All chain smoking and occasioanally shouting incomprehensibly at each other. I felt right at home. But time hasn't quite stood still in Rotundy. They now have a colour TV, properly mounted on the wall. And the tablecloths are Staropramen branded. For comparison, here's my description of Rotundy in the late 1990's: "In the main room the ceiling boasts a large ceiling fan, presumably for moving the fag smoke around. A particularly classy touch is provided by a portable monochrome television balanced on a chair which is itself standing on a table. All this effort being put into entertainment was clearly not wasted on the few customers, who were hypnotised by it. Strangely, here the green and white checked material has been used for the curtains instead of the tablecloths. These were yellow with an interesting collection of stains and holes, clearly the work of an avant-garde artist. The waiter was an impressive figure of a man, sporting a beergut with at least a 20-pint capacity. " The barman seemd strangely familiar, so may be the one described above. Though if it is, he's lost three or four pints from his beeergut capacity. On a personal note, this pub holds fond memories for me as I once accidentally locked myself in the toilet. I wonder if they've fixed that lock yet? If you weren't lucky enough to visit Prague in the 1980's, drop by Rotundy and you'll get a flavour of that golden age. But you had better hurry. The modern world won't be kept at bay forever.
Rating: *****	Public transport:

7. Restaurace U Zpěvácků
Na Struze 7, Prague 1.
Opening hours: Mon - Thu: 10:00-02:00 Fri - Sat: 10:00-03:00 Sun: 10:00-02:00
Number of draught beers: 4
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Pilsner Urquell 12% Gambrinus 10° světlé Krušovice 10° Černé Krušovice 10° světlé
Food: Snacks, meals. Beer 25-29 kr for half a litre.
The story of U Zpevácků highlights the changes in Prague pub trade over the last decade. Swapping the prefix from Pivnice ("alehouse") to Restaurace ("restaurant") was one of the least significant developments. It used to be, if I'm honest, dog rough.. Here's my description from 1997: "This pub has remained pretty much unchanged since a catastrophically tacky renovation in the 70's, which now manages to look quaint. It has revolting chunky wooden furniture that must have looked trendy for about 5 minutes and a wall coating that looks like pebbledash. As well as the taproom, there are 2 further small rooms which have been half knocked through into one. The customers are mostly long-haired beardies in their 50's who seem to get their kicks by shouting very loudly and incomprehensibly at each other. From outside it sounds like a defective jukebox playing a punk medley. I loved the Good Soldier Svejk slot machine. 15 kr for beer. " The photo to the left shows U Zpěvácků in its glory days (just before total chaos). After my mate (who lives 50 metres away from Pivnice U Zpěvácků told me of its decline into total anarchy, I began to feel guilty about recommending it in this guide for so many years. It got so bad, that a policeman was stationed at either end of the street (it's not more than 30 metres long) to try to keep everything under control. They couldn't. Local residents avoided the street out of fear for their own personal safety. Eventually the police raided it, arrested everyone and closed it down for three years. The new, improved Restaurace U Zpěvácků is a pretty dull food-orientated place. Safe, but boring. Though, given its history, going for total respectability is quite understandable. One improvement is the draught beer range - up from just one to four. Just a pity they are the usual SABMiller suspects.
Rating: **	Public transport:

8. U Fleků
Křemencova 11 110 01 Prague. Tel. 242 934 019-20 Fax: 242 934 805 Email: ufleku@volny.cz Homepage: http://www.ufleku.cz
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 09:00-23:00
Number of draught beers: 1
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Flekovsky Ležák 13%
Food: Snacks, meals. Prices:Snacks 85-140 kr, meals 185-365 kr. Beer 59 kr for 0.4 litre.
A huge and legendary beer hall which has housed a brewery since at least 1499. It has several large rooms in a simple, functional but comfortable style. At the rear there is an enclosed courtyard used as a beer garden in the warmer months. Physically, Prague's most famous pub is unaltered, but sadly much else about the place has changed. The new pricing structure (i.e. much more expensive) has driven away all the Czechs and with them most of the atmosphere. It always had plenty of Germans patronising it in the Summer, but an acceptable number of Czechs balanced them out. Yes, a beautiful, rambling pub, very simply furnished in plain wood, but with only transient tourists frequenting it, muchof its unique character has been lost. As if to finally prove that 's it's no longer for Czechs, the beer is sneakily served in 0.4 l glasses (a fact that they don't advertise too much). Oh, and the waiters will try and push unrequested, expensive spirits on you. The beer is at least as good as ever, but I wasn't tempted to linger too long just for that. Still a lovely and historic building, but a bit saddening, if you remember how it used to be. Go early in the day to avoid the worst annoyance.
Rating: **	Public transport:

9. U Bubeničků
Myslíkova 8 Prague 2 Tel. 295641
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 11:00-23:00
Number of draught beers: 3
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Pilsner Urquell 12% Velkopopovický kozel 10% tmavé (dark) Velkopopovický kozel 12% světlé
Food: Snacks 45-200 kr, meals 100-300 kr. Beer: 10° 22 kr, 12° 27.50 kr for half a litre.
Bubeničků is a large beerhall situated on the ground floor of a tennement block decorated with some impressive chunky statues. It's long been one of my favourite almost-city-centre pubs in Prague. It's the sort no-nonsense, functional but comfortable pub that used to be on every corner (well, that's what I like to imagine - every other corner is probably more accurate). There are two rooms at right angles to one another. The one closer to the bar - surprise, surprise - is preferred by the more serious beer drinkers. Though you wouldn't realise it from the drab photo above, the windows have some abstract leaded glass work that is very pleasing to the eye. The customers seem respectable and Czech, a pleasant combination so close to the centre. In a radical departure from convention, the tablecloths here are brown and white. Handily placed just around the corner from U Fleků, it provides an escape from that pub's high prices and flocks of tourists. The Herold 13% dark has been replaced by Kozel 10% dark - a shame, as the Herold is a cracking beer not often seen in Prague.
Rating: *****	Public transport:

U Medvídků
Na Perštýne 7, 100 01 Prague 1. Tel: 2-24 21 19 16 Fax: 2-24 22 09 30 E-mail: info@umedvidku.cz http://www.umedvidku.cz/
Opening hours: Mon - Sun 11:30 - 23:00 (Pivnice) Mon - Sun 16:00 - 03:00 (Budvar Bar)
Number of draught beers: 2 (Pivnice) 5 (Budvar Bar)
Number of bottled beers: 2 (Pivnice) 8 (Budvar Bar)
Regular draught beers: Pivnice: Budweiser Budvar Tmavý Ležák Budejovický Budvar 12% Budvar Bar: Budějovický Budvar 10% Budweiser Budvar Tmavý Ležák Budějovický Budvar 12% Budějovický Budvar 12% (unfiltered) Staropramen Granát Dům Piva: Old Gott
Food: Snacks 50-100 kr, meals 100-300 kr. Beer 26 kr for 0.5 l (Pivnice), 34 kr for 0.5 l (Budvar Bar).
An old favourite in the centre of Prague that has kept its character. It's been a Budvar outlet for decades and serves an excellent glass of the stuff. I once had a fascinating conversation with a Bass brewer (when they still owned Staropramen) here. That he was drinking Budvar tells you something about his opinion of Staropramen beer. The house brewed beer, Old Gott, is available in bottled form in the Pivnice. The Budvar Bar has a larger selection of beer than the Pivnice, later opening hours and higher prices. It's also the only pub in Prague selling unfiltered Budvar. The bottled list includes Náchod Primátor Double 24% , the strongest Czech beer, the same brewery's unfiltered wheat beer and Starobrno Červený Drak. In 2005, Dům Piva ("House of Beer") was opened.in yet another part of the building. It includes a beer museum, cabaret and a brewery. In the basement, there's a shop selling bottled beer, glasses and assorted memorabilia.
Rating: *****	Public transport: Můstek metro.

U Zlatého Tygra
Husova 17, Prague 1. http://www.uzlatehotygra.cz/
Opening hours: Mon - Sun 15:00 - 23:00
Number of draught beers: 1
Number of bottled beers: 0
Regular draught beers: Pilsner Urquell 12%
Food: Snacks 35-75 kr, meals 75-90 kr. Beer 30 kr for 0.5 l.
The Golden Tiger is a Prague classic. Of all the famous pubs in the city centre, it's been the most skillful in keeping at bay the tourist hordes. A single room, simply furnished with long pine tables and benches, is all there is. Oh, and a small counter for the beer taps. Yet it's never been easy to get a seat, such is tthe pub's popularity. Even pre-1989 the locals weren't too keen on their pub being swamped with tourists and who can blame them. Their success in holding on to it is ample demonstration of their passion. And the beer price, half that of many pubs around it. Those who know little of Czech culture will tell you that the pub is renowned for the visits of Bill Clinton and Václav Havel. But why did they come here? To see Bohumil Hrabal, Tygra regular for 60 years one of the top writers of the 20th century. (Unlike the mediocre Havel - my top six Czech writers are Páral, Čápek, Hrabal, Klíma, Hašek and Kundera.) I was very reluctant to include Tygra in this guide. Don't disappoint me by going there and pissing off the locals.
Rating: *****	Public transport:

U Černého vola
Loretánské nám. 1, Prague 6 - Hradčany. Tel: 220 513 481
Opening hours: Mon - Sun 09:00-22:00
Number of draught beers:
Number of bottled beers:
Regular draught beers: Velkopopovický Kozel Premium
Food: Snacks, meals. Beer 23 crowns for 0.5l.
The "Black Ox" is a wonderful, traditional pub hidden away in the precincts of Prague castle. Considering its location, the prices are remarkably low. I was pleased to hear that it's managed to remain unspoilt. See the comments above about not annoying the locals when visiting.
Rating: ****	Public transport:

Pivovarský Dům
Ječná/Lípová 15, Praha 2 120 44. Tel: 296 216 666 Fax 224 921 256 Email: pivodum@iol.cz http://www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum/index-a.html
Opening hours: Mon - Sun 11:00-23:00
Number of draught beers: 7
Number of bottled beers: 4
Regular draught beers: Kávové pivo Světlý ležák Tmavý ležák Pšeničné kvasnicové
Food: Snacks 95-150 crowns, meals 150-300 crowns. Beer 31.50 crowns for 0.5l.
A brewpub on a main street just far enough from the centre to stop it getting swamped by tourists. But not far enough to make getting there any great challenge for the dedicated beer drinker. The crappy concrete exterior reminds me of Akkurat in Stockholm. Just as there, it's much more welcoming inside. The dark wood and rather natty turquoise tiles work well and the huge windows stop it getting too gloomy. And of course, gleaming away in a corner are the diminutive, but perfectly formed, brewing vessels. The bright front bar is no smoking. (I'm dreaming , aren't I? The nicest room in the pub free of fag smoke: I must be in some strange, parallel-universe Prague.) I was so impressed by this discovery I didn't bother venturing deeper into the interior. They specialise in beers flavoured with unusual ingredients. Should the idea of coffee beer not attract you, the standars pale and dark lagers are both pretty good. The pale lager in particular has a hoppiness that is becoming rare in the Czech Republic.Reasonably priced for central Prague.
Rating: ****	Public transport: Metro B - Karlovo náměstí, Metro C - I.P.Pavlova, trams 4, 6, 10, 16, 22, 23 - Štěpánská.

Pivovar u Bulovky
Bulovka 17, 180 00 Praha 8 - Libeń. Tel: 284 840 650, Fax: 284 840 650 E-mail: richterpub@seznam.cz http://www.pivovarubulovky.cz/
Opening hours: Mon-Thur 11:00 - 23:00, Fri 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00 Sunday closed.
Number of draught beers: 1
Number of bottled beers:
Regular draught beers: PuB Premium 12°
Food: Meals 100-220 kr.Beer 28 kr for 0.5l.
Brewpub. The owner/brewer, who learnt his trade in Germany, brews an eclectic range of sesonal beers which draw their inspiration form the central Eurpean, Belgian and British brewing traditions. Most of the beers are top-fermented, including the one regular beer, a ležák.
Rating:	Public transport:

Prague Pub Guide

Prague 8 (Karlín)

Pivovarský klub
Křižíkova 17, Prague 8 Karlín Tel. 222 315 777 Fax: 222 315 777 E-mail: pivoklub@iol.cz http://www.gastroinfo.cz/pivoklub/index.html
Opening hours: Mon - Sun 11:30 - 23:30
Number of draught beers: 6
Number of bottled beers: 200
Regular draught beers: Štěpán Světlý ležák Křižíkova 17° Primátor Weizen
Food: Snacks 30-100, meals 100-150. Beer ? for 0.5l.
Beer pub with the same owners as Pivovarský Dům. The premises also contain a picobrewery with a 30 litre brew length where groups can brew their own beer, under the supervision of a brewer. The bottled selection, in addition to beers from smaller Czech nreweries, also features Belgian and German imports. These are some of the Czech breweries featured: Černá Hora, Dolní Cetno, BeneŠov, Hlinsko, Starobrno, Vysoký Chlumec, Svijany, Jihlava, Zlatopramen, Uherský Brod, Náchod, Malý Rohozec, Velké Popvice, Pardubice, Budvar, Nová Paka, Samson, Žatec, Třeboň, Březnice, Krušovice, Rakovník, Prazdroj, Minipivovar U Medvídků, Humpolec, Pivovarský Dům, Protivín, Pelhřimov.
Rating:	Public transport: metro Florenc

Prague Pub Guide

Beer shops

Pivní Galerie
U Průhonu 9, Holešovice (Praha 7) 170 00 Praha 7 Tel: 220870613 Fax: Email: pivnigalerie@post.cz http://www.pivnigalerie.cz
Opening hours: Mon - Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sunday closed
Number of draught beers: 240
Number of bottled beers: 2
Regular draught beers:
Food:
A beer shop in the suburb of Holešovice. It has some Belgian beer as well as Czech and Moravian. It has a small tasting room with 2 draught beers from small breweries.
Rating:	Public transport:

Galerie Piva
Lázeňská 15, Praha 1. Tel: 257532687 Fax: Email:
Opening hours: Mon - Fri 11:00 - 19:00, Saturday and Sunday closed.
Number of draught beers: 0
Number of bottled beers:
Regular draught beers:
Food:
A beer shop just off Charles Bridge on the Malá Strana.
Rating:	Public transport: Metro: Malostranská (line A), Tram: Malostranské náměstí

Prague Pub Guide

Outside Prague

Pivovarský dvůr Chýně
Hojda restaurant, Hlavní 28, 253 01 Hostivice-Chýně. Tel: 0311 - 679 592 Fax: 0311 - 670075 Email: info@pivovarskydvur.cz Homepage: http://www.pivovarskydvur.cz/
Opening hours: Mon - Sun 11:00 - 23:00
Number of draught beers: 3
Number of bottled beers:
Regular draught beers: Dvorní černé Dvorní ležák Kolařská Jedenáctka
Food: Snacks 30-90 kr, meals 120-290 kr. Beer 39 kr for 0.5l.
Brewpub in the village of Chýně, just a few kilometers outside Prague. For a full report of the pub and its brewery (amd how to get there), read here.
Rating:	Public transport:

Back to main index page

© Ron Pattinson 1996 - 2006

All articles and photos on these pages are property of Ron Pattinson. If you would like permission to reproduce either on your own site or in a book, please contact me first.