Kraków (Cracow/Krakau) Pub Guide

Bars - Brewpubs - Beer gardens

Introduction
	Index Kraków (Krakau) Pubs Warsaw Pubs Lublin Pubs Polish Beer Polish Breweries
You could call Kraków (Cracow) the Prague of Poland, a place thankfully spared the ravages of the last war and with a beautiful collection of late medieval and baroque buildings. One thing it doesn't share with Prague is a fatal case of tourist pollution. Here, at least, the local population hasn't (yet) been driven out of the historic centre. Prices are pretty much the same as you would expect in any Polish town and municipal life still revolves around the old central square. Not that it is completely empty of tourists, but it must be too far from the comforting old borders of Eastern Europe for large floods of them to inundate the town. Yet. Cracow Pubs The pub situation has drastically improved since the late 1980's. Then I could only find a single pub selling draught beer and this had a very sporadic supply. It was rationed by only being available at certain times of the day. It was easy to tell when they were selling it - it was when you couldn't get inside because it was full. Sadly, the bar in question has been converted into a McDonalds, but dozens of new pubs have opened to replace it. The standard of these new estblishments is variable, to say the least, with a disturbingly high number in the truly awful category. I suppose not being used to designing pubs it's taking them a while to perfect the art. For the outsider, the oddest feature is the almost total lack of light, natural or otherwise, inside most of them. Still, there are a few good ones as well as those which are so bad in some bizarre way that they have their own strange fascination. I have included establishments from both groups. Have fun sorting out which are which.
Further Information If you want to see how beautiful the city really is, have a look here at photos of the city by Piotr Zgodzinski. This is the spot for Krakow Hotels and Travel information. Cracow Online provides all sorts of useful tousist stuff and background articles.

Piwiarnia pod brama
Ul. Floriańska 47, Kraków. Tel.
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 10:00-24:00
Number of draught beers: 5
Number of bottled beers: 12
Regular draught beers: Piast (7.8%) Okocim Full Light Lezajsk 11% EB Specjal Pils
Food: None.
Time to put on your pit helmet for visiting this pub: it must be a good 2 storeys below ground level in vaulted brick cellars. The furniture, cocktail bar post-modernist, is just a slight contrast with the ancient brick walls and ceiling. You couldn't accuse the high chrome stools and marble tables of being the most comfortable furniture in the world, but there are a few normal-height tables and chairs hidden in the corners. The abstract stained glass panels are about the best feature. Interesting, but perhaps not the best place for anyone claustrophobic when crowded.
Rating: **	Public transport:

Student's Pub U Piwersów
Ul. Floriańska 32, Kraków. Tel. 012 - 422 8084 Email: jas@l.pl Homepage: www.piwersi.l.pl
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 12:00-open end Sat - Sun: 12:00-open end
Number of draught beers: 4
Number of bottled beers: 15
Regular draught beers: EB Specjal Pils Zywiec Zywiec Porter
Food: None.
Krakow confirms itself as the claustrophobes nightmare with this cellar bar about 100 metres (or so it seems) below ground level. My advice; take your davy lamp with you as the way down is a bit tortuous and none too well lit. At the end of it all, when you're past the "Punk's not dead" (when people start claiming that something is not dead or will live for ever, it's usually a good sign that it's already in its coffin awaiting burial) sign and into the basic pub, you may wonder if it was worth the effort. The bar is in one corner and a strange gallery makes one side even more gloomy and cramped (just about possible). It does have a full-sized pool table, a dartboard and some bits of beer paraphenalia, but these can't really save the place from being totally dismal. The sign on the street upstairs is the best feature. Beer costs 5 - 6 zl.
Rating: *	Public transport:

U Kacpra
Ul. Slakowska 2, Kraków. Tel. 012 - 421 88 26
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 12:00-02:00 Sat - Sun: 16:00-02:00
Number of draught beers: 6
Number of bottled beers: 6
Regular draught beers: EB Specjal Pils Okocim Pils Zywiec Zywiec Porter Grolsch Pils (5%)
Food: Snacks.
Time to get your pickaxes out again children, because this is another one for those who always fancied a career with London Underground (and I don't mean a clandestine resistance movement). At least the brick vaulted cellars here are pretty high and they remembered the 100 watt lightbulbs. It's furnished fairly appropriately and tastefully with simple wooden stuff which fits pretty well with the spartan brickwork. Strangely, though a sign outside says 21+ only, me and the barmaid were about the only ones over 20. The prices are reasonable at 4.50 zl a 1/2 litre. Also handily close to the main square.
Rating: ***	Public transport:

Piwnica Pod Ogródkiem
Ul. Jagiellońska 6, 31-010 Kraków. Tel. 012 - 292 07 63 Fax: (12) 292 07 62 e-mail: arton@kr.onet.pl http://www.cracow-life.com/pod_ogrodkiem.html
Opening hours: Mon - Thur 16:00-open end, Fri - Sun: 12:00-open end
Number of draught beers: 6
Number of bottled beers: 15
Regular draught beers: Hevelius EB Specjal Pils Zywiec Zywiec Porter Guinness Stout Kilkenny
Food: Snacks, meals.
You guessed it; another journey to the centre of the earth. This time, at the top of the vaults there are a couple of tiny windows giving you a nice view of the ankles of anyone walking past. Unfortunately, we're well into tacky territory here, with the contents looking as if they have been taken from a wharehouse sealed since the early 70's. I suppose in keeping with this, terrible rock music leaks unstoppably from the stereo. To get to a more practical description, the bar runs the length of one wall and as well as bar stools, there are a few tall tables and chairs. Through the bar is another room with a posh creperie. Crępe sums it up.
Rating: **	Public transport:

Shakesbeer
Ul. Golebia 2, 31-007 Kraków. Tel. 012 - 421 30 20 e-mail : mccorner@ifb.com.pl
Opening hours: Sun - Thu: 14:00-01:00 Fri - Sat: 16:00-02:00
Number of draught beers: 5
Number of bottled beers: 10
Regular draught beers: EB Specjal Pils Grolsch Pils (5%) Kilkenny Guinness Stout
Food: None.
This place has two claims to fame: the crappiest name I've come across and the worst music (a Smokie album) I've ever heard in a public place. It is at least above ground, though with the windows blocked up, you could be misled into thinking that this is another subterranean job. It became a pub in 1991 and the name comes from that famous Shakepeare quote "To beer or not to beer". No, it still doesn't make the name seem any better. It's kitted out in a bizarre plywood/brick/stone décor which defies description. It's difficult to decide whether it's cheap and tacky or pretentiously arty. The bar is situated as far from the door as possible, so you have plenty of time to change your mind about giving them your custom before the barman catches your eye. Judging by the name and the beers on tap, it's supposed to be some sort of Irish/English pub, though it doesn't bear any physical resemblance to one. The beer costs 5 - 6 zl. for 0.5 l.
Rating: **	Public transport:

Fischer Pub
Ul. Grodzka 42, Kraków. Tel. 012 - 421 7056
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 10:00-04:00
Number of draught beers: 5
Number of bottled beers: 12
Regular draught beers: EB Specjal Pils Zywiec Grolsch Pils (5%)
Food: None.
This is a bit more like it, a cosy one-room pub with the feel of somewhere you would like to stay for more than one beer. Nothing that really sticks out in the decoration, just plain, functional furniture, though there is an old beamed ceiling if you feel like straining your neck. It has no frontage on the street, but a sign does mark where you have to duck into an entrance hall through which you'll find the way in. By the way, don't pay any attention to the 'Members Only' sign - they let everyone in. I can only assume that this is intended to put off either the riffraff or tourists - though these two groups are probably one in the same. It has the usual crowd of sub-20's and crappy rock music, but the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. Beer is 5 - 6 zl. a 1/2 litre. Has Grzanie - warm, spiced beer, which goes down a treat on those cold, winter evenings.
Rating: ****	Public transport:

Irish Arms
Ul. Poselska 18, Kraków. Tel. 602 - 110 619
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 10:00-02:00 Sat - Sun: 12:00-02:00
Number of draught beers: 5
Number of bottled beers: 10
Regular draught beers: EB Specjal Pils Zywiec Caffrey's Irish Ale Guinness Stout
Food: Snacks, meals.
We're staying above ground for a while with a spacious two-room pub, cunningly hidden behind a frontage the width of a doorway. This being Poland, it doesn't mean that there is any natural light and, in fact, light of any sort is at a premium as they seem to have forgotten to switch the lights on. It was so dark that I had to hang around just inside the door for 10 minutes until my eyes got accustomed to the dark. Then I was able to I find the bar and order a drink. There are vaulted ceilings and odd murals looking like Vienna meets New Orleans. It seems fairly tastefully kitted out, but given the gloom, it could quite easily be furnished with orange boxes. I could make out tartan seat covers which don't bode well for the colour sense of the decorator. Mmm and groove to the cool sounds of Eric Crapton. Spiced Grzanie beer is also available. Seems to have become an Irish pub since my last visit.
Rating: **	Public transport:

Square Pub
Ul. Grodzka 51, Kraków. Tel. 012 - 421 1161 http://www.senacki.krakow.pl/
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 12:00-23:00
Number of draught beers: 5
Number of bottled beers: 7
Regular draught beers: EB Specjal Pils Okocim Pils Zywiec Zywiec Porter Grolsch Pils (5%)
Food: None.
If you thought you were getting the hang of this underground lark, here is a new challenge for you. This pub is in a series of interlinked cellars with the feel of dungeons. Your mission is to find the one that has the bar in it. Strangely enough, given the building, it's sort of young and trendy - though isn't almost everywhere here? Situated between town and Wawel, it's a good place to stop off on your way back if you want to maintain the medieval atmosphere. It's a bit like the crypt in the cathedral, except without all those dead kings and the disturbing air of nationalism. Beer is 5 - 6 zl a 1/2 litre.
Rating: ***	Public transport:

Green Club
ul. Grodzka 50 (piwnica), Kraków. Tel. 012 - 430 2080 Homepage:
Opening hours: Mon - Sun: 16:00 - open end
Number of draught beers: 2
Number of bottled beers: 8
Regular draught beers: Zywiec Zywiec Porter
Food: Snacks, meals.
Sometimes you get the feeling in Cracow that someone has confused the words cavern and tavern. Here's yet another cellar boozer with an entry hidden away down an alleyway. There are a series of rooms in vaulted stone cellars, interconnected in a scarily claustrophobic way. The cellars ramble on to such an extent that you can't but wonder if they don't stretch all the way to those of Elita opposite. It has very simple wooden furniture and virtually no decoration, unless you count some very post-modernist industrial ducting. Obviously, there is a total absence of natural light. The bar is like a little kiosk jammed under one of the vaults. It hosts live music, which sounds like a very scary experience, given the constricted nature of the place. Beer is 4.50 - 5.50 zl a 1/2 litre.
Rating: ***	Public transport:

C.K. Browar
ul. Podwale 6-7, 31-118 Kraków. Tel. 012 - 429 2505 Fax: 012 - 428 2652 Homepage: http://www.ckbrowar.pl/
Opening hours: Pub: Mon - Sun 09:00-02:00 Restaurant: Mon - Sun 12:00-24:00 Night Club: Fri-Sat 20:00-04:00
Number of draught beers: 2
Number of bottled beers: 8
Regular draught beers: C.K. Jasne 11.5ş C.K. Ciemne 14.5ş 7% CK Ingwer 14.5ş Weizen 12ş
Food: Snacks, meals. Prices: Beer 4.90 - 6.90 zl. for 0.5l. Snacks 6 - 10 zl., meals 16 - 50 zl.
A brewpub, restaurant and nightclub, located underneath the Elephant department store. I'm very grateful to Alan Bates for furnishing me with more details of this establishment (and the photograph). There are three completely separate areas, with different opening times. The pub is a long narrow cellar bar with the brewing equipment at one end. (You should just be able to make out the distant gleam of copper in the photo.) They have a fairly interesting range of beer, including a rare dark lager (Ciemne). It looks well worth a visit.
Rating:	Public transport:

Klub Biesiada
Ul. Senecka 7, Kraków. Tel. 421 9945
Opening hours: Mon - Fri: 09:00-22:00, Sat - Sun: 10:00-22:00
Number of draught beers: 2
Number of bottled beers: 15
Regular draught beers: Zywiec Okocim Pils
Food: None.
Now this is more what you expect of a pub - daylight and middle-aged working-class blokes slurping down beer. It's not normal all those teenage lasses and candles. It's a pretty small place, one room with a weird collection of furniture, some of it elegant plywood and formica. The murals are good fun too: one depicts scenes of medieval drunkenness (a bit Breughel) the other St.George doing the poor dragon in. A good place to visit, if only for the complete change it atmosphere from everywhere else in town. At 4 zl. a 1/2 litre for the beer, good value, too. My companion says: "I haven't seen such a terribly dirty toilet in years. It annoys me that I even had to pay for it." So, beware of the toilets, if you are a woman.
Rating: ***	Public transport:

Pub Rutyna
ul. Westerplatte 13, 31-033 Kraków. Tel: 421 46 00 Email: pub@rutyna.pl http://www.rutyna.pl
Opening hours: Mon - Thu 11:00-24:00, Fri - Sun 11:00-02:00
Number of draught beers: 4
Number of bottled beers: 8
Regular draught beers: Zywiec Okocim Pils Tyskie Kasztelan Pils
Food: Snacks 2.0-6.0, meals 10 - 20 zl. Beer 3.5 - 5.0 zl. for 0.5l.
A pub close to the Krakow's main Station. It hosts live music every Friday night, but anyone is welcome to come and sing on other nights.
Rating:	Public transport:

© Ron Pattinson 1997 - 2004