I finally made it back to Copenhagen. The changes since my last visit were a shock, but for once a pleasant one.
On my last visit in the late 1990´s, there was very little decent beer, with the exception of a few locally-brewed porters. Mostly your choice was limited to Carlsberg or Tuborg pils.
The turning point came in 1998 with the foundation of Danske Ølentusiaster , Denmark´s beer consumers´organisation. Their success in attracting members and educating the public is an example to campaigners everywhere. Specialist beer bars began to appear: Charlie´s, Gulliver´s, Tatoverede Enke. At first they concentrated on imported British, Belgian or German beer. Not surprising, as there was very little Danish beer worth bothering with. But with consumer demand and retail outlets established, microbreweries followed. A trickle of craft beer turned into a flood.
In 2000, there were a mere 18 breweries, of which around half were controlled by Heineken or Royal Unibrew. In the last 5 years these have been joined by 31 new micronbreweries and brewpubs, leaving Denmark with an impressive 48 breweries for its 5 million people. That's the equivalent of 470 breweries in the UK. At the current rate of expansion, they should hit 100 this decade.
The reaction of local monopolist Carlsberg was surprising: they started microbrewing themselves. With their Semper Ardens series, they brewed beers aimed at the new, more discerning, type of beer drinker. Perfectly logical, you might say. But take a look at similar global brewers elsewhere. You don´t see Heineken or Inbev brewing an IPA or an Imperial Barley Wine.
Copenhagen pubs
The city now has half a dozen top-class beer bars, four brewpubs and several excellent specialist beer shops. Even the supermarkets have a good choice of quality beers, partly courtesy of Carlsberg who import Brooklyn Brewery´s full range. Most pubs have four or five beers on draught, though these are usually just Carlsberg´s mainstream efforts.
With beers from Belgium, Britain, the USA, Sweden, Germany and Norway, Copenhagen´s specialist outlets offer a breadth of choice rarely seen elsewhere. Your biggest problem is likely to be deciding where to start. I left each bar with a long list of beers I still wanted to try.
Copenhagen is becoming one of Europe´s top beer-drinking destinations. I think the credit goes to Danske Ølentusiaster - a very active and well-supported (over 10,000 members) organisation. Why not go and give them some support?
Danske Ølentusiaster organise an annual beer festival in Copenhagen. This was the next edition:
Københavnske Øldage
Location:Valby Hallen
Date: 20th - 22nd May 2005
Opening times: Friday 20th 16:00 - 23:00, Saturday 21st 12:00 - 23:00, Sunday 22nd 12:00 - 18:00
I was inspired to write my original guide by (and used as a source) an article in "Maltesen" the magazine of Svenska Ölfrämjandet. It was written by Bo Kallmar and detailed a couple of bars selling British cask-conditioned beer in Copenhagen. Very helpfully, it gave some useful tips on where to find more information on the web about drinking in Denmark.
The Nordic countries have always led the way in the information technology revolution (translation: they've all been wired up to the web for yonks). I blame those long winter nights. As you will see below, most of the pubs have their own website. The site of Danske Ølentusiaster is a mine of useful information: all the Danish breweries and the beers they brew; lists of specialist beer bars in different Danish towns. It puts the CAMRA site to shame. For a homebound researcher like myself, the computer literacy of these countries gives me easy access to a mass of accurate, up-to-date information.
I'm
back in known territory here. I've drunk in (and outside) the Apollo several
times. Brewpubs haven't caught on in Denmark as they have elsewhere and
this is one of a rare breed. They've got some staying power, having been
around since 1989. Admittedly, their location, adjacent to the entrance
to the Tivoli, can't have done their business any harm. No shortage of passing
trade here.
Charlie's
Bar is on a side street of Strøget, Copenhagen's main pedestrianised shopping
street, right in the centre of town. 
