19th Century Lager
styles - history - beers


Introduction
Whilst compiling a page on the breweries of the Czech Republic, I realised that I had a problem with the section on beer styles. What types of beer do they brew: Pils, Helles, Märzen? Do they brew similar types of lager to those of Bavaria?

The answers that I came up with weren't quite the ones I had expected. Not only are Czech lagers firmly rooted in the classic styles, they give a unique insight into the evolution of these beers through the 20th century. Not being the selfish type, I would like to share with you some of the information that I unearthed.

I won't pretend that this stuff will be of much interest to the casual reader. But hopefully my fellow obsessives will find it informative.


Bottom-fementing styles circa 1900
There is a fascinating chapter in "American Handy Book of Brewing , Malting and Auxiliary Trades" (Wahl & Henius, Chicago 1902) on Thick Mash Beers in Germany and Austria (P.780-792). It's the best explanation I've read of early lager styles. It's pretty precise about the specifications of the beers, even down to the hopping rates. As the book is designed as a practical manual for brewers, it must bear at least some resemblance to reality.

I'll paraphrase now what it says about the different types of continental lager beer:

type colour subtype gravity Balling hops/ hl comments flavour
Bohemian beer: "light-yellow to greenish-yellow" Abzug/Schenk 10.5° 300, 350, to 400 g usually kräusened as Hefenbier - I suppose a sort of cask-conditioned version. It was kräusened as racked into the trade package and needed time to settle in the public house before serving. "the taste is vinous , dry, somewhat sharp; instead of the malt taste, the bitter taste of the hops predominates." The kräusened beer didn't need to be kept as cold during lagering
    Abzug/Schenk 11.5° 350, 400 to 430 g    
    Lagerbier 12.5° 420, 460, 500 g not kräusened, i.e. racked bright. Stored three to four months. Bunged 4 weeks and more., so I guess high in CO2.
    Export 13.5° 450, 480, 550 g not kräusened. Stored minimum three to four months. Bunged 4 weeks and more.
Wiener Beer: between Bavarian and Bohemian in colour Abzug 10.5° 200, 220 to 260 g 6 to 8 weeks old, bunged 1 or 2 weeks cooled to about zero
C02 content 0.32-0.39%
Between Bavarian and Bohemian in taste. I suppose bittersweet.
    Abzug 11.5° 250, 280 to 300 g 6 to 8 weeks old, bunged 1 or 2 weeks cooled to about zero C02 content 0.32-0.39%  
      12.5° 300, 330 to 360 g    
    Lagerbier 13.5° 320, 360, 400 g Stored four to five months, bunged (if at all) max. 2 weeks  
    Märzen 14.5° 380, 400, 420 g    
    Export 15.5° 400, 480, 550 g    
Bavarian beer: pale brown Munich beer and dark brown Kulmbacher beer. Winter Bier 10.5-11.5° (4.25% alc. vol)   Stored 4 weeks, bunged 6 to 8 days "It has palate-fulness, a sweet taste and malt flavor."
    Summer Bier 12.5-14.5° (4.9% alc. vol) 200, 280 to 300 g Same hop rate for all strengths. Stored 4 weeks, Bunged 2 weeks  
    Export 15° (5.5% alc. vol)   Stored 10 weeks, Bunged 2 weeks  
    Bock 16° to 18° (5.9% alc. vol)   Stored 10 weeks, Bunged 2 weeks  
Brauerei Zacherl (Munich) (now called Paulaner) 1853 Bock 20° (5% alc. vol) 750g Fermented for 15-18 days  
    Salvator 23.5° (6% alc. vol) 850g Fermented for 15-18 days  
Notes:
  1. Beer was bunged to increase the amount of dissolved CO2 to that desired. It usually ocurred immediately before the beer was due to be sold.
  2. The darker beers were not - as is often the case today - brewed from a grist of pilsner malt plus a small amount of highly-coloured malt. Vienna beers were brewed from 100% vienna malt, Munich beers from 100% dark Münchner malt. The Bohemian beers were - surprise, surprise - made from 100% pilsner malt.
  3. The principal differences between the types in terms of colour and degree of attenuation derived from the characteristics of the different kinds of malt.

Here are some Czech, Viennese and Bavarian beers analysed around this time (Wahl & Henius, p. 823-830):

Beer Brewery Date sampled Balling Wort Balling Beer app.deg. atten. alc. wt. alc. vol.
Pilsener (Schenk or Winter Beer) Bürgerliches Brauhaus, Pilsen (Pilsner Urquell) 1886 11.2° 3.56° 68% 2.98% 3.73%
Lagerbier Bürgerliches Brauhaus, Pilsen 1887 11.72° 3.25° 72% 3.32% 4.15%
Export Bürgerliches Brauhaus, Pilsen 1888 11.95° 3.55° 70% 3.46% 4.33%
Export Bürgerliches Brauhaus, Pilsen 1898 13.82° 3.80° 72.5% 4.20% 5.26%
Lagerbier Pilsner Urquell, Pilsen 2004 12.0° 3.65° 70% 3.52% 4.4%
Lagerbier Actien-Brauhaus, Pilsen 1887 11.72° 2.75° 77% 3.51% 4.4%
Export Actien-Brauhaus, Pilsen 1897 12.21° 3.1° 75% 3.82% 4.8%
Lagerbier Budweiser (not specified which brewery) 1887 11.34° 2.75° 76% 3.56% 4.45%
Lagerbier Budweiser Budvar 2004 12.0° 2.5° 81% 4% 5%
Lagerbier Dreher, Michelob 1888 13.30° 3.80° 71% 4.11% 5.14%
Bock Brünner (Brno - not specified which brewery) 1876 14.63° 4.40° 70% 4.39% 5.5%
Schenk or Winter Beer Nussdorfer 1876 10.78° 3.75° 65% 2.93% 3.69%
Lagerbier Nussdorfer - 13.18° 3.75° 72% 3.85% 4.81%
Schenk or Winter Beer Kleinschwechater 1888/1885 10.13° 3.00° 70% 2.94% 3.68%
Lagerbier Schwechater - 13.25° 4.25° 68% 3.62% 4.53%
Export Dreher, Kleinschwechat 1898 13.07° 3.95° 70% 3.83% 4.78%
Schenk or Winter Beer Munich (not specified which brewery) 1886 11.92° 4.25° 63% 3.00% 3.75%
Lagerbier Löwenbräu, Munich 1888 14.75° 3.55° 76% 3.46%  
Export Löwenbräu, Munich 1901 13.53° 4.13° 69% 3.95% 4.94%
Lagerbier Spaten , Munich 1867 13.07° 4.50° 66% 3.23%  
Export Spaten , Munich 1879 13.7° 5.05° 63% 3.74% 4.65%
Bock Spaten , Munich - 24° 8.47° 65% 7% 8.73%
Export Kulmbacher 1885 17.60° 7.55° 57% 4.18% 5.22%
Export Kulmbacher 1887 15.30° 4.50° 71% 4.48% 5.61%
Bock Kulmbacher Actien 1880 20.24° 6.97° 66% 5.28% 6.6%
Bock Zacherl (Paulaner), Munich 1853 19.8° 10.8° 45% 3.97% 4.97%
Salvator Zacherl (Paulaner), Munich 1853 23.5° 12.7° 46% 4.87% 6.09%
Salvator Paulaner, Munich 2004 18.3° 4.6° 75% 6% 7.5%

You'll note that the beers run like this in decreasing degree of attenuation (and increasing colour):
Budweis, Pilsen, Vienna, Munich.

A tantalising - because I only have an analysis of 1 Budweis beer - difference is shown between the Pilsen beers the drier one from Budweis. It's a distinction that is just as true today.

The 1911 Encyclopedia.Brittanica also has some interesting analyses (performed by A. Doemens) of continental lagers, presumably carried out in the early 1900's:

Beer OG Plato ABW ABV
Munich Draught Dark 1056.4 13.75° 3.76% 4.7%
Munich Draught Dark 1052.6 12.8° 3.38% 4.23%
Munich Light 1048.0 11.86° 3.18% 3.98%
Munich Light 1048.1 11.86° 4.05% 4.86%
Export 1054.3 13.28° 3.68% 4.6%
Export 1059.5 14.57° 4.15% 5.19%
Bock Beer 1076.6 18.5° 4.53% 5.66%
Pilsener Bottle 1047.7 11.8° 3.47% 4.34%
Pilsener Draught 1044.3 10.91° 3.25% 4.06%
Berlin Dark 1055.2 13.51° 3.82% 4.78%
Berlin Light 1056.5 13.87° 4.36% 5.45%
Weissbier (I guess Berliner Weisse) 1033.1 8.26° 2.64% 3.3%
Source:
1911 Encyclopedia.Brittanica: entry for beer.

Notes:
ABV and Plato my calculation.
For purposes of comparison, these are the strengths of British beers of the same period


By way of comparison, here are the specifications of DDR bottom-fermenting cicrca 1975 ("Technologie Brauer und Mälzer" Wolfgang Kunze, Leipzig 1975, p.415-430):

type start grav. end grav. app.deg.atten. alc. wt. hop g/hl colour EBC CO2
Malzbier 2.4° 55-65% 0.5 - 1.2% 40 min 47 0.35%
Hell 11° - 11.°5 2.75° (max) min. 75% 3.6 - 4.0% 180 max 13.8 0.38%
Schwarzbier 12° 3.6 - 4.8° 60-70%   230 min 160 0.35%
Deutsches Pilsner 12.5° -13.0° 3.1° (max) min. 75% 3.7 - 4.2% 250 max 12.2 0.38%
Deutsches Pilsator 12.5° -13.3° 2.75° (max) min. 78% 3.8 - 4.5% 300 max 12.2 0.40%
Märzen 14° 4.2° (max) min. 70% 3.8 - 4.3% 240 40 - 55 0.38%
Bockbier Hell 16° 4.0 - 5.1° 68-75% 4.5 - 5.2% 150 23 - 33 0.38%
Bockbier Dunkel 16° 4.5 - 5.6° 65-72% 4.5 - 5.0% 150 min 85 0.38%
Norddeutsches Lagerbier*         130 - 250    
Pilsener Biertyp*         250 - 500    
Dortmunder Biertyp*         200 - 250    
Münchner Biertyp*         130 - 170    
Notes:
The start and end gravity are given in degrees Plato.
* "Leitfaden für den Brauer und Mälzer" Rudolf Dickscheit, Leipzig 1953, p.82.

You're probably wondering (if you haven't already packed up and gone home) why I have bothered you with all this historical gumph. Because without this knowledge, modern Czech beer styles won't make a great deal of sense. Unless - as may well be the case - you're brighter than me.

How can I say this without seeming a total prat? Until a terrifyingly recent date, I had thought of Czech beer as without beer styles in the classic sense. They don't call their beers Pils or Münchner or Export; they just brew 11, 12, 13 and 14° Plato beer either pale, dark or amber. How wrong could I have been.....

Stumbling across a pre-WW II Czech beer label prompted a rethink. A very simple label, printed in orangey-brown. In the centre "14%" and underneath "Märzen". Of course - Czech 14% amber beers were in the Märzen style! On closer inspection, 13% pale lagers are in the Spezial style; suddenly these Bohemian beers were fitting in very nicely with the lagers from Bavaria, Austria
and Switzerland.

It's like a physicist stumbling upon an unified field theory - suddenly the whole universe can be described in one sentence. Or perhaps a 19th century chemist filling in the grid of the periodic table. Which is exactly what I'll do now.

The illuminating quality of Czech lagers is not a matter of chance. The survival of so many of the early lager types in Bohemia make it far easier to spot patterns. Here's my grid:

Country 8% 10% 11% 12% 13% 14% 15% 16% 18%
Czech Republic Výèepní Výèepní Le¾ák Le¾ák Speciální Speciální/Exportní y y y
  Výèepní Výèepní Le¾ák Le¾ák Speciální Speciální/Märzen y y y
  Výèepní Výèepní Le¾ák Le¾ák Speciální Speciální y y y
Bavaria x x Pils Helles Spezial Oktoberfest x Bock Doppelbock
  x x x Lagerbier?   Märzen x Bock Doppelbock
  x x x Dunkles märzen/export   x Bock Doppelbock
Austria x x Helles/Pils Märzen Spezial   x Bock  
  x x Lager Bernstein Granit Märzen x Bock  
  x x   Export Spezial   x Bock Doppelbock
Switzerland x x   Helles Spezial Starkbier   Bock x
  x x       Starkbier   Bock x
  x x   Dunkles Spezial     Bock x
Notes:
x - no beer brewed of this type
y - beer of this type brewed, but has no standard name
- the three different coloured rows represent pale, amber and dark lagers

I won't insult your intelligence - you can see that far more of the Czech boxes are occupied. Vienna lagers aren't dead: they've just moved over the border. No country produces such a range of amber (polotmavé pivo) and dark lagers (tmavé pivo) as the Czech Republic. I can't quite understand why no-one has twigged this yet.


Modern Lagers
Below is a randomish selection of breweries from lager's heartland and some of their products. The variation in strength and colour is wider than a visit to the supermarket might lead you to believe.

Lager is very much the spotty git with bad teeth at the beer geek ball. No-one wants to hang out with it. That would look so uncool. Maybe it's time to look closer.

Beer Brewery Date Plato Wort Plato Beer app.deg. atten. alc. wt. alc. vol.
Bavaria
Helles Spaten 2004 11.7° 1.84° 84% 4.16% 5.2%
Pils Spaten 2004 11.7° 2.22° 81% 4% 5%
Gold Spaten 2004 13° 2.65° 80% 4.4% 5.5%
Oktoberfest Spaten 2004 13.7° 2.63° 81% 4.72% 5.9%
               
Helles Paulaner 2004 11.5° 2.2° 81% 3.92% 4.9%
Dunkles Paulaner 2004 12.5° 3.17° 75% 4% 5%
Urtyp Paulaner 2004 12.5° 2.1° 83% 4.4% 5.5%
Märzen Paulaner 2004 13.7° 2.81° 79% 4.64% 5.8%
Oktoberfest Paulaner 2004 13.7° 2.44° 82% 4.8% 6%
Dark Bock Paulaner 2004 18.3° 4.59° 75% 6% 7.5%
               
Helles Löwenbräu 2004 11.8° 1.95° 83% 4.16% 5.2%
Pils Löwenbräu 2004 11.8° 1.95° 83% 4.16% 5.2%
Dunkles Löwenbräu 2004 12.5° 2.11° 83% 4.4% 5.5%
Oktoberfest Löwenbräu 2004 13.7° 2.26° 84% 4.88% 6.1%
Triumphator Löwenbräu 2004 18.2° 4.3° 76% 6.08% 7.6%
               
Helles Andechs 2004 11.5° 2.38° 79% 3.84% 4.8%
Dunkles Andechs 2004 12.5° 3.43° 73% 3.84% 4.8%
Spezial Andechs 2004 13.5° 2.62° 81% 4.64% 5.8%
Pale Bock Andechs 2004 16.5° 3.58° 78% 5.6% 7%
Dark Bock Andechs 2004 18.5° 5.72° 69% 5.6% 7%
               
Pale lager Augusta, Augsburg 2004 7.8° 2.38° 69% 2.24% 2.8%
Helles Augusta, Augsburg 2004 11.5° 2.38° 79% 3.84% 4.8%
Pils Augusta, Augsburg 2004 11.8° 2.7° 77% 3.84% 4.8%
Export Augusta, Augsburg 2004 12.5° 2.68° 79% 4.16% 5.2%
Märzen Augusta, Augsburg 2004 13.5° 2.98° 78% 4.48% 5.6%
Festbier Augusta, Augsburg 2004 13.5° 2.98° 78% 4.48% 5.6%
Bock Augusta, Augsburg 2004 19.8° 5.3° 73% 6.4% 8%
               
Czech Republic
pale 10° Bernard 2004 10° 2.74° 73% 3.04% 3.8%
amber 11° Bernard 2004 11° 2.43° 78% 3.6% 4.5%
pale 11° Bernard 2004 11° 2.43° 78% 3.6% 4.5%
pale 12° Bernard 2004 12° 3.12° 74% 3.75% 4.7%
dark 13° Bernard 2004 13° 3.37° 74% 4.09% 5.1%
pale 14° Bernard 2004 14° 3.12° 78% 4.65% 5.8%
               
amber 10° Herold 2004 10° 2.33° 77% 3.21% 4%
pale 10° Herold 2004 10° 2.15° 78% 3.29% 4.1%
pale 12° Herold 2004 12° 2.33° 81% 4.09% 5.1%
dark 13° Herold 2004 13° 3.37° 74% 4.09% 5.1%
pale 14° Herold 2004 14° 3.12° 78% 4.65% 5.8%
               
pale 12° Pilsner Urquell 2004 12.0° 3.65° 70% 3.52% 4.4%
pale 12° Budweiser Budvar 2004 12.0° 2.5° 81% 4% 5%
               
Austria
Pils Baumgartner 2004 11.8° 2.71° 77% 3.84% 4.8%
Märzen Baumgartner 2004 12.3° 2.66° 78% 4.08 5.1%
Export Baumgartner 2004 13.5° 2.79° 79% 4.56% 5.7%
Dark lager Baumgartner 2004 14.4° 4.88° 66% 4.08% 5.1%
Bock Baumgartner 2004 16.2° 4.18° 74% 5.2% 6.5%
               
Pils Eggenberg 2004 11.7° 2.21° 81% 4% 5%
Märzen Eggenberg 2004 12.2° 2.93° 76% 3.92% 4.9%
Dunkles Eggenberg 2004 13° 3.77° 71% 3.92% 4.9%
Spezial Eggenberg 2004 13.2° 3.42° 74% 4.16% 5.2%
Pale Bock Eggenberg 2004 16.2° 3.07° 81% 5.68% 7.1%
Amber Bock Eggenberg 2004 17° 3.2° 81% 6% 7.5%
Dark Bock Eggenberg 2004 23° 5.39° 77% 7.92% 9.9%
               
Pale lager Schlägl 2004 8.1° 2.11° 74% 2.48% 3.1%
Märzen Schlägl 2004 11.8° 2.33° 80% 4% 5%
Pils Schlägl 2004 12.5° 2.69° 79% 4.16% 5.2%
Dunkles Schlägl 2004 12.8° 3.37° 74% 4% 5%
Spezial Schlägl 2004 13.4° 2.88° 79% 4.48% 5.6%
Amber lager Schlägl 2004 13.5° 2.62° 81% 4.64% 5.8%
Dark Bock Schlägl 2004 19° 3.89° 80% 6.64% 8.3%
               
Märzen Hofstetten 2004 11.5° 2.57° 78% 3.76% 4.7%
Pils Hofstetten 2004 11.7° 1.84° 84% 4.16% 5.2%
Dunkles Hofstetten 2004 12.5° 2.68° 79% 4.16% 5.2%
Amber lager Hofstetten 2004 12.5° 2.12° 83% 4.4% 5.5%
Spezial Hofstetten 2004 12.8° 2.44° 81% 4.4% 5.5%
Pale Bock Hofstetten 2004 16.2° 2.88° 82% 5.76% 7.2%
               
Pale lager Mohren 2004 8.2° 1.83° 78% 2.64% 3.3%
Pils Mohren 2004 11.3° 2.18° 81% 3.84% 4.8%
Märzen Mohren 2004 11.6° 2.3° 80% 3.92 4.9%
Export Mohren 2004 11.7° 2.22° 81% 4% 5%
Dunkles Mohren 2004 11.8° 3.08° 74% 3.68% 4.6%
Spezial Mohren 2004 12.7° 2.14° 83% 4.48% 5.6%
Amber lager Mohren 2004 13.6° 2.34° 83% 4.8% 6%
Pale Bock Mohren 2004 16.5° 3.58° 78% 5.6% 7%
               
Märzen Kaltenhausen 2004 11.6° 2.12° 82% 4% 5%
Pils Kaltenhausen 2004 11.8° 2.32° 80% 4% 5%
Premium Kaltenhausen 2004 12.2° 1.98° 84% 4.32% 5.4%
Amber lager Kaltenhausen 2004 12.3° 4.55° 63% 3.28% 4.1%
Spezial Kaltenhausen 2004 12.8° 2.05° 84% 4.56% 5.7%
Dunkel Kaltenhausen 2004 13.3° 4.47° 66% 3.76% 4.7%
Bock Kaltenhausen 2004 16.2° 3.07° 81% 5.78% 7.1%
               





Back to main index page


© Ron Pattinson 2004-2006


All articles and photos on these pages are property of Ron Pattinson. If you would like permission to reproduce either on your own site or in a book, please contact me first.